Description

PLEASE BEWARE, ANY VIKING ICEMAKER LISTING SHOWING A LIGHT (ALMOST WHITE to LIGHT GRAY) MOLD = (where ice is formed at) IS NOT GENUINE OEM BUT RATHER AN AFTERMARKET GENERIC PRODUCT. 1st 2 picts of White to light gray molds ARE NOT OEM + 3rd pic due to no print on lower half of large dial face is also non-OEM! OEM = Original Equipment Manufacturer = what Viking originally chose to be in your Viking refrigerator. Selling >>> NEW genuine WHITE or BLACK Viking OEM #002252-000 ice maker shown in last 8 pictures only. New OEM Viking #002252-000 ice maker unit. Old Numbers are G5096497, G50911855, G50911858 and may require separate purchase of a wiring harness cord (part #D7813004) if OLD unit's power cord is permanently attached and same for wire arm if permanently attached. Does not come in original box or packaging, will be better! This is a genuine OEM bare basic Viking icemaker 002252-000 unit. Sold without the ice level arm lever, wiring harness power cord, underside support and SS clip that retains nozzle entry into fill cup and no fro nt cover (these 5 items are easily transferred from the replaced ice maker). Makes 8 crescent shaped cubes per harvest cycle (provided you are getting the necessary (4.0 ounces = 130cc = 130ml) of water per fill). Comes in WHITE or BLACK housing with taupe or black mold (where ice is formed at). Should you have a preferrence then say so at time of ordering. No choice will default to Black housing (both are equally reliable)! This listing is a GENUINE OEM VIKING product as this ensures quality (last 8 pictures)! ALL U.S. territories, Hawaii and Alaska buyers must inquire for shipping prices! I sell ONLY to lower 48 states at these shipping prices = Shipping via USPS Ground advantage is $16.00. Most people choose the less expensive carrier. NOTE: Sometimes i upgrade a carrier postage label if it will get there faster and cost no more than what you selected HOWEVER If you select fedex ground/home and it has to be FEDEX because of a USPS "NO deliver to" address situation, then let me know it " HAS TO BE FEDEX FOR CERTAIN " at time of purchase then NO CHANGES will be made on my end. i have only run into this situation a couple of times. have lots of parts for icemakers, many good used and a wide selection so if in need ask a question; you can send up to several pictures per message thru ebay just click on "attach photos" before sending! This is a GENUINE FSP OEM product = FSP stamped (picture 6) on hood covering of output drive gear +/AND large dial/commutator wheel has lettering ALL around top edge (not just half of it as do generics that specify "DO NOT ROTATE MANUALLY" only). ADDRESSING FAQ about "O" cup VS. flat top cup: some people won't give the factory "O" hole fill cup a try because if they need a mounting side entry access for fill nozzle into cup then they think the factory "O" hole will leak water. THIS IS NOT THE CASE! because the bottom edge of the knocked out for rear wall mounted access is at EXACTLY the same height as the bottom edge of the factory "O" hole = NO leak! i will gladly take out the knock-out to match your old unit should you need mounting side access for back wall mounted unit before sending OR i can leave it in place and you can do it. There is an outline INSIDE the cup for cutting guideance with a box cutter (be very careful). Thanks, Raymond in Texas! This factory "O" type fill cup will replace all original flat top fill cups. GREAT TIPS AND HAVE A NICE DAY! Having trouble with enough ice production? try these tips >>>> #1 you must get a full fill each cycle; if you have a 7 or 8 cube icemaker metal tray mold (where ice is formed at) they all must be full; most icemakers will harvest about every 1.5 to 2 hours per cycle (you must keep refrigerator doors closed because FREEZER temperature of 0ºF to + 8ºF is CRITICAL to ice production. #2 nearly all domestic icemakers in refrigerators require a MINIMUM of 30psi water supply for proper flow AND to get a positive shut-off (an internally leaking Wv although slow will/can cause freezing of the fill tube nozzle and once this happens then ALL ice production stops until it is manually thawed/cleared = it will NOT clear itself (40 to 65 psi is MUCH better). #3 check ALL incoming water filters both external (supply water lines leading to refrigerator AND internally within the refrigerator). A WORD ABOUT RO SYSTEMS = Reverse Osmosis: Here is a little known fact, since RO systems operate on a pressure differential they inheriently deliver only approx 2/3rds of the supplied house pressure so, for an example if you have 60psi incoming then the best you can expect is 40psi coming out and that is when the unit is new and all filters are in top operational mode (clean) and it goes DOWN from there! I do not believe you can get a better quality of water purity than an RO system and I have one in my home BUT know this * they require maintainence and they offer a reduction in their outgoing pressure which in some cases can negatively affect certain products. It is NOT recommended to use BOTH an RO system + any other filter be it internal or external on an icemaker installation. IF both are used together it can offer such HIGH RESISTANCE to the flow of water it can cause a multitude of problems for an icemaker = it can cause cubes to be too small and this (because of their reduced size) could cause the cubes to try to re-enter the mold (where cubes are formed and cannot jump the stripper to be delivered into ice bucket/container ) due to a lack of water flow which then in turn cause the cubes to get hung up upon trying to re-enter and sometimes even breaking the stripper bar. Once they get hung up there all ice production stops until you manually chip the cubes and are clear once again for the unit to cycle. *** If you have 40 psi incoming water pressure to your house then the RO sys will be limited to about 26 to 28 psi output which is BELOW the minimum requirement of most water valve manufacturers for proper operation and longevity.